We had a late breakfast 9:00 a.m. of bread and apricot jam, Nescafe coffee - with a new container of milk, a raw salad and a cooked green salad - it was a slim breakfast day that left us all wanting an egg of some sort - some thought hard boiled, some thought scrambled - in any event we were eggless.
We boarded the van to attend part of an Armenian church service. The women all had scarves as the women cover their hair when they enter the church. The bishop who had participated in the house blessing ceremony a few days before was in attendance at the church service. Services can last 3 hours or more and people come and go throughout the entire service. We entered at 11:00, lit candles for family members and friends and sent special blessings into the incense infused air. There were very few pews in the large church - we stood in the back behind the pews with most of the crowd. The choir was above and behind us hidden from view but their voices filled the space beautifully - angelic music, gorgeous music, music that fed the soul and it was a beautiful experience.
As planned, after spending about 40 minutes in the church service, we stopped for about 15 minutes to rush to a boot store and others went shopping in a silver store and an icon store. The first boot store we went to was unfortunately closed, and after much discussion about me wearing my one and only other pair of shoes: my Keen clogs - I convinced them no - it wouldn't work and that I did need some shoes and no someone else couldn't buy them for me and bring them to my hotel becuase I'd have to try them on to make sure they fit... the discussion went on and on until we decided to trek across to another market - quickly - to see if this other boot store / shoe store was open. We did and what sights we passed - sellers of fresh coffee beans, meat hanging from hooks, fresh vegetable displays, we arrived at the shoe store and it was open. In we went, and I looked around and couldn't figure out which were mens and which were womens - when I asked I was told - "whatever you want them to be". So I picked out a few shoes that might do - none were really hiking boot style but nonetheless I was looking for something that could withstand the mud. Something with a good sole. I asked for 7 1/2 size (37) - nope didn't have that size. No not that one either, no ... so I quickly figured out the system... which shoe do you have in a 71/2? They brought me one that was made in Italy, black (extra points !) and had a thick sole - perfect. I tried them on - they fit well enough for three days - they were mine for 9,900 dram (about$19).
We drove through the Pushkin Pass to the Bushkie area to go hiking to the Hnevank Monastery. We drove through villages that were so picturesque I wished we could have stopped to walk through the streets taking photos - but we were headed to the mountain and had no time to dally. We passed Armenian boys standing in groups eating sunflower seeds (it's the thing to do), men herding their cows down the middle of the streets, women in their fields planting potatoes - we're in the potato region, fruit trees blooming, ancient buildings made of stones, old fences leaninig this way and that... and again I saw a giant pig - just one. We drove higher and higher and the views were amazing - rocky cliffs, river below, caves, green forests... Basalt rock formations. We arrived at our destination and began our hike to the monastery - the ruins of a monastery that is - being restored since 2006. Originally built in the 7th century. I have pictures - it's gorgeous and when it's completed will be even more beautiful. We explored and hiked, took photos, watched cows go by and arrived at our picnic site just in time to experience another torrential rain storm - complete with thunder in the mountains it echoes wonderfully. Many spent time preparing our bbq in the picnic shelter , others waited out the rain on the van. The sun came out, we enjoyed our shishkabobs, lentils (for the vegetarians in the group, grilled eggplant salad, Armenian coffee and russian candies for dessert. We played games, watched a herder go by with his cows who were very curious about our group, the cutest dog/puppy ever arrived with the cows and managed to "cute" its way to some shishkabobs and other treats.
We drove home through more postcard scenes and arrived at the hotel. I walked in the rain to the internet cafe where I sit now recounting an amazing day. I kept thinking to myself today, I can't believe I'm standing in the mountains of Armenia having a picnic watching cows go by! I can't believe it! It fills my very sole - soul (Hoki) with happiness.
